This hike is one of the prettiest in the state and we could hardly ask for a more spectacular setting, with the consistently beautiful Sawatch Range to the west and the high peaks of the Continental Divide and the Tenmile and Mosquito ranges east. A steep initial climb leads to Fancy Pass, then down into the bucolic Missouri Lakes area and a return along Missouri Creek.

The trail begins on hard-packed tread with freckles of rocks here and there as it delves into quiet forest. Climbing gradually, the scenery gets exponentially prettier with the rising elevation. This wilderness area is loaded with alpine lakes and streams, more than 25 peaks rising above 13,000 feet, and the namesake for the wilderness, Mount of the Holy Cross.

Hike past a deep, rugged gorge carrying a squiggly stripe of a creek and then up a series of steep switchbacks toward an otherworldly view. Nestled in the embrace of a half moon of mountains, Fancy Lake’s placid waters reflect a landscape of deep green pines and moss-covered boulders on a grassy knoll, wildflowers all over the place, and inquisitive rainbow trout noodling about just off shore. Alpine elegance, and a great place to linger.

Climb steeply away from the lake to outstanding views of the eastern ranges. This is rugged country, with a raw and untamed feel, on the way to Fancy Pass at 12,390 feet. A nearly 3,000-foot elevation gain in just over two miles and worth every step. Decadent views stretch to the horizon in every direction. Two lakes appear as little puddles far below the pass, scores of big 13ers are everywhere, dots of distant tarns nestle among the hills, all fringed with panoramic views of Holy Cross Ridge and the Sawatch Range. Nice!

From the pass, the trail descends toward Treasure Vault Lake and an exquisite basin of wildflowers and expansive rock fields. At about the four mile mark is the junction with the trail leading west to Blodgett Lake and the trail heading south and uphill again to Missouri Pass. at 11,900 feet. Below is a huge U-shaped valley of steep cliffs and high ridges flanking Missouri Lakes, an Eden of a dozen pristine mountain lakes surrounded by groves of spruce and fir. It is a magnificent scene with a contrast of bold, rugged mountains and soft green landscape. Keep an eye open for deer, lynx, elk, bobcats, and black bears.

On the initial descent, the trail crosses Missouri Creek a couple of times and passes a few scenic waterfalls and past a wetland area loaded with flowers. Pass another deep, narrow gorge housing a roaring creek to a leveler grade near the bottom of the valley, where the creek deposits itself into small lake. From here, the trail parallels the creek and a forest road back to the trailhead.

Why this place matters

The Holy Cross Wilderness includes nearly 123, 000 acres around its namesake mountain, including wetlands and fens critical to natural water flow. Bear, elk, lynx, fish, waterfowl, and many other species—including rare and endangered—live in this wilderness and depend on wetlands and fens for food and habitat. Wetlands are nature’s water storage systems, the earth’s lifeblood, taking thousands of years to develop and uncannily reliable through epochs of an evolving world.

Unless something tosses a wrench in the works. Out of control Front Range growth means more faucets and demand for water. Aurora and Colorado Springs want to flood Holy Cross wetlands and build an enormous dam/reservoir to satiate their thirst. One preposterous proposal to “mitigate” environmental loss is to dig up the wetlands in big blocks and "replant” them elsewhere.

Personal note: What the ever-loving *!#@? Transplant a highly complex natural system with a backhoe and call it good? A rapidly changing climate needs an efficient supporting cast and as per usual, humans think their way is best. Until, of course, the resources are all gone and everything else suffers. Apologies for the rant but this makes me nauseous. We need to stop taking and let things be.